Monday 29 June 2020

Daily photos no. 62: in the not-far country

It's still too hot, so I'm sticking with wintry scenes - in this case a walk in the hills above Mold in north-east Wales. It's a much overlooked area but full of modest beauty twinned with the scruffy estuarine edge lands of England and Wales, grim former resorts and cultural interest - its proximity to the Wirral, Chester and Liverpool but also to the rural heartlands of the Welsh language have produced a hybrid culture that challenges the myths both England and Wales tell about themselves. Niall Griffiths' novels make full use of this debatable land, particularly Wreckage, while Emyr Humphreys' A Toy Epic is a modernist classic, using the trajectories of three Flintshire boys to trace the emergence of this new hybrid nation. RS Thomas was the vicar in Manafon and later Eglwysfach, famously painting everything in the latter church black (although that might have been his artist wife Elsi's idea) and vocally expressing his disappointment in a flock that failed to live up to his imagination: or as he put it in the translation of 'Y Llwybrau Gynt', 'I had seen this tract of country from the train at dusk through romantic spectacles. I now found myself amongst tough, materialistic, hard-working people, who measured one another by the acre and the pound; Welshmen who had turned their backs on their cultural inheritance'

Lorna Sage's more recent memoir Bad Blood captures all the madness, repression and isolation of the border country (and including an even more monstrous priest than RST): it's an astonishing story of a family gone sour, a community without a culture and a bright girl desperate to get out.

All of which made a muddy ramble one January day all the more enjoyable.










6 comments:

Michael said...

A couple of points:-
- RS and Elsi painted the pews black in Eglwysfach, I haven’t heard that they had previously done that in Manafon, do you have a source for that?
- what is your basis for suggesting that RS was a ‘monstrous priest’?

The Plashing Vole said...

My poor memory made me mix up Eglwysfach and Manafon - will correct. My light-hearted reference to a monstrous priest refers particularly to his own poem in which he mentions his parishioners hiding rather than open the door to him.

The farmers’ wives are at their windows
They’ve seen him wind his way for hours
They tell the kids to lower their voices
And pretend that they are out

Anonymous said...

Great photos. Do you have a title/source for the poem?

The Plashing Vole said...

Actually I can't now remember where that came from so I've cut it in case its not by him! I'm far from my books at the moment.

Michael said...

H’m, it’s not readily apparent that your ‘monstrous priest’ comment is light-hearted, I would think that members of his family could well be upset by that; the poem you quote might better suggest ‘uncomfortable’ or ‘awkward’. Here’s another view from people who knew him well… bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-23242935

Anonymous said...

it might be from david sylvian's album/song 'manafon?