Wednesday 17 March 2010

Destination: head-chopping

The Map Twats went walking on Saturday. We started off in Flash, a damp, bleak, snowywindchilled village which is the highest in England. It was all downhill from there, I can tell you.

Our aim was Lud's Church, a stunning, hidden limestone chasm which was apparently the Green Chapel in Gawain and the Green Knight (based on descriptions and the dialect) and later a haunt of Lollards (14th Century heretics) and Luddites (18th Century peasants resisting replacement by machines) before it was invaded by Romantics and then people in sensible anoraks. Gawain accepted a challenge from the Green Knight: if Gawain chopped off the Knight's head, he had to find the Green Chapel by the next New Year's Day and return the favour - cue many adventures and a moral test.

Here's the relevant bit (and the original is here)


They rode up steep slopes where the branches are bare 
They climbed up rock faces gripped by the cold 
The clouds were high up – but dark underneath. 
Mist drizzled on moor – broke up on the hills 
Each peak wore a hat - a big cloak of mist. 
Streams boiled and splashed down the hillsides about… 
Then the knight spurred Gringalet, and rode adown the path close in by a bank beside a grove. So he rode through the rough thicket, right into the dale, and there he halted, for it seemed him wild enough. No sign of a chapel could he see, but high and burnt banks on either side and rough rugged crags with great stones above. An ill-looking place he thought it.

Then he drew in his horse and looked around to seek the chapel, but he saw none and thought it strange. Then he saw as it were a mound on a level space of land by a bank beside the stream where it ran swiftly, the water bubbled within as if boiling. The knight turned his steed to the mound, and lighted down and tied the rein to the branch of a linden; and he turned to the mound and walked round it, questioning with himself what it might be. It had a hole at the end and at either side, and was overgrown with clumps of grass, and it was hollow within as an old cave or the crevice of a crag; he knew not what it might be.

   "Ah," quoth Gawain, "can this be the Green Chapel? Here might the devil say his mattins at midnight! Now I wis there is wizardry here. 'Tis an ugly oratory, all overgrown with grass, and 'twould well beseem that fellow in green to say his devotions on devil's wise. Now feel I in five wits, 'tis the foul fiend himself who hath set me this tryst, to destroy me here! This is a chapel of mischance: ill-luck betide it, 'tis the cursedest kirk that ever I came in!"




"By God," quoth Gawain, "I trow that gear is preparing for the knight who will meet me here. Alas! naught may help me, yet should my life be forfeit, I fear not a jot!" With that he called aloud. "Who waiteth in this place to give me tryst? Now is Gawain come hither: if any man will aught of him let him hasten hither now or never."
   "Stay," quoth one on the bank above his head, "and ye shall speedily have that which I promised ye." Yet for a while the noise of whetting went on ere he appeared, and then he came forth from a cave in the crag with a fell weapon, a Danish axe newly dight, wherewith to deal the blow. An evil head it had, four feet large, no less, sharply ground, and bound to the handle by the lace that gleamed brightly. And the knight himself was all green as before, face and foot, locks and beard, but now he was afoot. When he came to the water he would not wade it, but sprang over with the pole of his axe, and strode boldly over the brent that was white with snow.

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